Rotuma, my ancestral home

Seven long years since I last saw my ancestral home of Rotuma. I was a teenager then, full of hopes and dreams that have morphed into something else entirely as an adult (don't know what that is yet). Trepidation seeps in as I spy my beloved Rotuma from the ship.

200 souls boarded the ‘Brianna’ bound for Rotuma from the Suva wharf, at 3pm on a Saturday. Oh how the name of this vessel seemed a tad tame compared to the last ship that took me on my maiden voyage, the ‘Cagi Mai Ba’, what a name!

After hundreds of miles and close to 40 hours of sea faring we finally reached Rotuma. Sailing through very rough seas, for that many hours seeing nothing but the horizon left us craving for land. All we could see from a distance was a tiny dot which then grew and grew and within hours it was ‘Rotuma’.

Memories flooded while the boat passed through villages towards the wharf. Seeing the little Islands that make Rotuma - ‘Husia he Rua’ and ‘Afgaha’ - where I used to play at my uncles beach front in ‘Matu’ea’ ‘Noa’tau’ with my cousin Faga. Our view was of the Husia and the sea was aqua blue and it was MAGIC! Touch down at the wharf and the heat was excruciating. Everybody was gathered at the wharf waiting for their ‘furou’(visitors).

It was an exciting moment for the visitors and the ‘kakai’ (natives). Cartons and bags all at the back of a carrier with people from my village and we were off to the district of Malha’a. I couldn’t wait to have a good shower and rest up to start my 4 day vacation in Rotuma. Arriving at my family home to the Rotuman delicacy ‘ikou tahror’ (Fiji’s vegetable of rourou blended with pickled coconut) and lamb with dalo was heaven!

Hello Rotuma!

Our family home ‘Vagrua’ located in the village of Else’e is the original home of ‘Three Good Lane’ my home away from home. I was greeted by my Vagrua family with the warmest hugs and to be back after almost 10 years felt like nothing but happiness. It was now time to change into my swimmers and head on down to the beach – because when there’s an opportunity to take that perfect Instagram photo, GRAB IT!

At my family home 'Vagrua' getting the shot in frame

With the only source of transportation being a motorcycle or a carrier, Rotuman people have found a love for a bicycle ride village to village and even up to the mountains to visit their farms and at times look for network signal. Lol the struggle to find decent network and internet connection on most parts of the island is real.

Digicel is the only network available on the island so its no joke what their slogan says – “Bigger, Better Network”. Internet was only accessible from ‘Elsio’ (village) onwards to ‘Ahau’ (village) leading on to Motusa (village) which meant that the only time I could upload on Facebook and Instagram was when there was a trip to ‘Ahau’ or any nearby village which was a daily routine for my Uncle and his family.

The food – oh the food! If one was to say that they’re facing poverty living on an Island like Rotuma, I would say that would be absolute bullsh*t! The landmass per village runs for acres and the soil is rich enough to be able to plant anything. The richness in the marine life is somewhat comparable to that of the land in Rotuma and this you notice during any meal where having Octopus in coconut milk and taro was a casual lunch and chicken taroro or fried fish with some greens was dinner.

Taroro fermenting in the sun

This was something most City dwellers yearn for but can only have them on Sundays or very special occasions. From the popular ‘tahroro’ (pickled coconut) and ‘uhi and io’ (yam and fish) ‘fikei mar ma ‘a’an (desert – grated dalo with sugar and starch), you won’t be able to make a decision on what to eat. The variety in Rotuman cuisine is a festival for your taste buds and everyday closer to Friday (my departure) was dreadful.

You can't do Rotuma without the essentials, thanks Pure Fiji!

Take away lessons from my time in Rotuma:

• I upped my ‘tagane’ (man) level when my Shellac nails were eviserated in my uncle’s plantation. That struggle brought out the ‘tagane’ in me. #KAILA • Mosquito repellant is your #1 must have if you’re on my home turf. • Flip-flops and gum boots only and you’re good to go. • And if you can’t speak Rotuman, you can’t sit with us (maybe I should get an app made)